73 and 23 Linerlock Observations
I've been wanting to sit down and make a few comments about the new Linerlocks, but I've been too busy selling them!!! It's a tough job, but somebody's gotta do it, right???
I dropped a 73L in Burnt Stag in my pocket a few weeks back and have thoroughly checked out the #23L's since they came out. I sincerely wish I could say there are things about them I don't like ...... but I really can't. So fair warning, nothing but good news ahead and just a little light unjustified criticism.
The very first thing I looked at on all of the linerlocks I've handled was, obviously, the fit and 'security' of the linerlock. Many years ago, I somehow came in possession of a much used toothpick style linerlock of dubious construction. Dubious because if you put a little pressure on the top of the open blade the linerlock just slid out of the way and let the blade close!! With a little judicious prying and twisting, you could get hold of the lock with a pair of needle nose pliers and 'fix' the lock.....for a while. In all seriousness, that was my last exposure to the traditional linerlock mechanism until the advent of the modern day locks, i.e. CRKT, SOG etc.
Now, before I set one of you 'purists' off on a dissertation about what the different styles of linerlocks might include, I'm going to take a little literary license and refer to the GEC linerlock as a "Traditional" linerlock. In other words, it's gotta long chunk of bent metal that lies between the liners so when you open the blade, the 'lock' springs over to block the blade from closing before you want it to! Pretty straight forward!
So in the sense that it's a traditional linerlock I have found the 'fit' (referring to how tight the lock fits up against the blade to lock it open) to be superb. I've checked around 30 knives and all of them locked open with no perceptible movement of the blade. Just as critical, upon opening, the lock deployed without hesitation. Not once was it necessary to force the blade a little past the full open position to get it to lock or to manually push the lock into place. The lock also made full contact with the blade. Really important details.
While I'm not big on destruction tests (I'll admit they're fun to watch and read about), I didn't use excessive force to see if the lock would fail nor do I recommend it. What I did do was try to wiggle the blade a little to see if you could 'jump' the lock. Nope, it stayed locked like the proverbial vault door. I have no doubt someone can get the lock to fail, but not under 'normal' usage.
A word of caution. These linerlocks are made to close tolerances and are no different then any mechanical device. Anytime you get a piece of precision equipment, it's important to keep it clean and lubed to make sure it works properly.I'd be willing to bet that folks who make knife repairs fix more then a few knives with a thorough cleaning. Blow the pocket lint out of it once in a while, rinse it under a little warm water, blow the moisture out of the innards, wipe it down and put a drop of oil on the spring, pivots and blade.....you're good to go! Don't overdo the oil as that can cause dirt to collect and there's nothing ruins a slice of cheese and apple (or in Jaxon's case a good steak) quicker then a taste of WD40 soaked pocket lint.
Well, I promised a little criticism and this is it. Actually, I've covered it before but it's the strength of the spring. I am in the habit of releasing the lock on my other knives, pushing the back of the blade against my leg and closing the blade. The GEC's have a half stop and the blade moves from open to half closed with authority. Personally, I'm changing my habits. I've never had the blades jump past the half lock, but it never fails to startle me how quick it hits that half lock when I'm not paying attention. In all actuality, that stiff spring helps keep the blade open which is a good thing. I'm getting used to it, and it's definitely not a design flaw! As Red Green says, ..'I'm a man, but I can change if I have to...I guess'.
greg
TSA Knives, LLC
I dropped a 73L in Burnt Stag in my pocket a few weeks back and have thoroughly checked out the #23L's since they came out. I sincerely wish I could say there are things about them I don't like ...... but I really can't. So fair warning, nothing but good news ahead and just a little light unjustified criticism.
The very first thing I looked at on all of the linerlocks I've handled was, obviously, the fit and 'security' of the linerlock. Many years ago, I somehow came in possession of a much used toothpick style linerlock of dubious construction. Dubious because if you put a little pressure on the top of the open blade the linerlock just slid out of the way and let the blade close!! With a little judicious prying and twisting, you could get hold of the lock with a pair of needle nose pliers and 'fix' the lock.....for a while. In all seriousness, that was my last exposure to the traditional linerlock mechanism until the advent of the modern day locks, i.e. CRKT, SOG etc.
Now, before I set one of you 'purists' off on a dissertation about what the different styles of linerlocks might include, I'm going to take a little literary license and refer to the GEC linerlock as a "Traditional" linerlock. In other words, it's gotta long chunk of bent metal that lies between the liners so when you open the blade, the 'lock' springs over to block the blade from closing before you want it to! Pretty straight forward!
So in the sense that it's a traditional linerlock I have found the 'fit' (referring to how tight the lock fits up against the blade to lock it open) to be superb. I've checked around 30 knives and all of them locked open with no perceptible movement of the blade. Just as critical, upon opening, the lock deployed without hesitation. Not once was it necessary to force the blade a little past the full open position to get it to lock or to manually push the lock into place. The lock also made full contact with the blade. Really important details.
While I'm not big on destruction tests (I'll admit they're fun to watch and read about), I didn't use excessive force to see if the lock would fail nor do I recommend it. What I did do was try to wiggle the blade a little to see if you could 'jump' the lock. Nope, it stayed locked like the proverbial vault door. I have no doubt someone can get the lock to fail, but not under 'normal' usage.
A word of caution. These linerlocks are made to close tolerances and are no different then any mechanical device. Anytime you get a piece of precision equipment, it's important to keep it clean and lubed to make sure it works properly.I'd be willing to bet that folks who make knife repairs fix more then a few knives with a thorough cleaning. Blow the pocket lint out of it once in a while, rinse it under a little warm water, blow the moisture out of the innards, wipe it down and put a drop of oil on the spring, pivots and blade.....you're good to go! Don't overdo the oil as that can cause dirt to collect and there's nothing ruins a slice of cheese and apple (or in Jaxon's case a good steak) quicker then a taste of WD40 soaked pocket lint.
Well, I promised a little criticism and this is it. Actually, I've covered it before but it's the strength of the spring. I am in the habit of releasing the lock on my other knives, pushing the back of the blade against my leg and closing the blade. The GEC's have a half stop and the blade moves from open to half closed with authority. Personally, I'm changing my habits. I've never had the blades jump past the half lock, but it never fails to startle me how quick it hits that half lock when I'm not paying attention. In all actuality, that stiff spring helps keep the blade open which is a good thing. I'm getting used to it, and it's definitely not a design flaw! As Red Green says, ..'I'm a man, but I can change if I have to...I guess'.
greg
TSA Knives, LLC
By way of clarification, although the cutter was my Red Buffalo, not my Linerlock, the steaks and prime rib were delicious. No oil or pocket lint flavors at all.
Right, Greg, on the closing characteristics of these things. Everybody be very careful, especially with the linerlocks where a digit may be in the path of the closing blade.
Jaxon
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Thanks for the review and comment. I'm EXTREMELY pleased with my Burnt Stag Liner and would like to add a word or two.
Fit&finish are more than pleasing,it is true that the pins that are nearest the blade seem a bit short,they don't have the rounded head of the other pins.Otherwise, irreprochable especially the feel and opening of the knife. The scales are top notch and they are different on each side, something I like a lot.It's already had a mineral oil bath which always puts a glow on a knife and cleans out lingering factory gunk.If you use mineral for the joints as well you don't have to worry about oil taste(which is not only unpleasant but unhealthy too...)The knife is getting used everyday and I was lucky enough to have a soft French leather sheath which suits it perfectly.I'm not at all surprised they sold out quickly and I'm keeping an eye out for other scale types as this is not only a looker but a user too. Finally, the Burnt Stag gives excellent grip something which I suspect the Old Bark scales do as well, a not unimportant safety feature.Keep those scale options coming GE!
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Will,
I can almost assure you that the Old Bark Bone Linerlock 73 will rival the handle texture of the Burnt Stags. And all of the pins are full size. I think you would like one. For some reason I can't seem to get a picture that adequately shows the texture and color. I'll keep trying to get good enough light for a picture and post if I can.
Jaxon
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I have a 73L Burnt Stag, which I have EDC'ed now for a couple of months. No complaints other than having to take a jewelers file to the back spring rivet to make it more flush with the Stag, no biggie fixed her up in 5 min now I'm happy. THe Spring has eased up just the way I like it and the blade takes a great edge free hand on my DMT stone and a ceramic CASE pocket sharpener. I'm very pleased and have not reverted to using any other knives since switching EDC's. For those that like to keep there knife scratch free the back spring and bolsters with a little polish return to new in minutes, which surprised me (VERY IMPRESSED WITH THAT!!!) The blade I prefer to have patina on but I'm sure could polish up just as the bolsters do. Just a Great knife, I bought a knife Roll Queen (Genuine Stag) and this one for a EDC and I use it for everything. As for blade strength, fantastic I've done somethings I should not have done with no damage to the blade. I give my Genuine Stag a grade of A+ ....,performance is not graded due to not being used, and my Burnt Stag a grade of B+ fit and finish and A- for performance. This knife allows me to carry a 3 inch plus size blade and not scare non knife folks. Hell I've had 3 girls even ask to see the knife and all three thought the classic design was neat. One said her Granddad had one just like it, "that's neat". I'm very happy with the knife and enjoy looking at it threw out the day when work is slow.
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